Is it time to replace?
A new system usually makes more sense than another repair when two or more of these apply: the equipment is 12 to 15 years old and needs a major part, you have had three or more repair calls in the past 18 months, energy bills keep climbing without another explanation, the system uses R-22 refrigerant, which is no longer produced, or some rooms never reach a comfortable temperature. If the unit is under 10 years old and the fault is a capacitor or contactor, repair is usually the better choice. We do not use commissioned sales reps, and we will tell you when a repair is the sensible answer.
The assessment and load calculation
Every installation starts with a Manual J load calculation, the industry-standard method for working out how much heating and cooling a house needs. We do not simply repeat the size of the old unit, because the previous system was often oversized or undersized to begin with. Inside, we look at duct condition, sealing and sizing, electrical panel capacity, thermostat location and wiring, return-air placement, rooms that run hot or cold, and attic insulation. Outside, we check the pad, clearances, refrigerant line routing, and the electrical disconnect. Homes near Oak Tree and in the older neighborhoods around Boulevard sometimes need creative solutions for line sets or drainage.
Planning ranges
Before the assessment, these budget ranges help with planning. They are not quotes; your written price follows the assessment.
- AC replacement: $4,500 to $15,000
- Furnace installation: $3,800 to $8,500
- AC and furnace together: $8,000 to $18,000
Try the budget calculator for an early figure, see pricing, and ask us about current payment options. Rebate programs change, so check current rebates before counting on an amount.
Permits and inspection
We regularly hear from homeowners whose system was installed by another company without a permit, and the problem only surfaced when they tried to sell the house and the inspector flagged it. On our installations we pull the required mechanical permit before work starts and schedule the city inspection when we finish. The inspector checks items such as refrigerant line sizing and connections, electrical wiring and disconnect placement, outdoor unit clearances, gas line pressure testing on furnace installations, and duct and return-air connections.
Preparing for installation day
- Clear about three feet around the indoor equipment and a path to it from the front door.
- Leave driveway space for trucks and materials.
- Trim plants within two feet of the outdoor pad. In Oak Tree we have arrived to find shrubs completely covering the condenser pad.
- Keep pets in a separate room or away for the day.
- If the air handler is in the attic, make sure the ladder and opening are clear.
- Turn the thermostat off before the crew disconnects the old system.
Startup testing
Once the equipment is connected, we verify the refrigerant charge against the manufacturer's specifications for your line set length, measure airflow at the supply registers and returns, check static pressure, test every thermostat mode, including emergency heat on a heat pump, check gas furnace operation, and confirm the condensate drains freely. Static pressure matters: a homeowner near Oak Tree called us months after another installation because nobody had checked it on day one.
Walkthrough, documents, and warranty registration
Before we leave, we show you how to change the filter, where the shutoff is, what the thermostat settings mean, and what normal operation sounds like. You receive documentation with model and serial numbers, the installation date, and permit information. Manufacturer equipment warranties are separate from our work and depend on registration and the manufacturer's terms, so we walk you through registering the equipment and recommend keeping these records with your maintenance history.